Birds of Passage (2018) is an ambitious crime film set in Columbia between about 1969 and 1980. The film's narrative traces the rise of the Waayu people, an indigenous desert-dwelling tribe, from an impoverished nomadic people into something approaching modernity and, then, their fall as well. This all occurs within the span of about a decade, the Waayu's meteoric rise and fall jet-fueled by their increasingly fatal involvement in "selling weed" -- bales of industrial strength weed, cultivated from San Marcos seeds obligingly supplied by Peace Corps volunteers. An enterprise that begins with burros ends with late model SUVs and battles fought with machine-guns and rocket-launchers. The movie has an intriguing premise, but it has complex plot and some of it wasn't clear to me. Nonetheless, this film directed by the Columbian filmmaker Cirro Guerra and his wife, Christina Gallego (she seems to have the contacts with the indigenous people), has compelling characters and a gritty, raw texture -- at times, the film is "magic realism" of a sort that would seem contrived if it wasn't so ethnographically motivated by the visions and customs of the Waaju.
At first, viewers may think that they have stumbled into a film nicely shot and edited for a college anthropology class. A young woman, Zaida, has been in isolation in a hut made of branches and wattle for a year. We don't why but she is commended by her formidable grandmother, Ursula, for her patience and fortitude. (The Waaju are apparently matrililneal, with matriarchs establishing the traditions by which the tribal people regulate their lives; the film is like The Godfather if all the "men of honor" weren't elderly Sicilians but old Indian women.) Zaida dances with potential suitors, wearing a bright kimono-like garment with winged sleeves. The dance seems to imitate the mating rituals of birds -- the bride struts in her plumage and the male darts backward as she advances toward him. At first, Zaida dances with a boy called Leonidas. Although we don't understand this until much later, Leonidas is the male heir of one of the leading matrilineal lines and his grandmother wants him to be the war chief, or male leader, of tribe. Leonidas is just a kid and he embarrasses himself by falling over backward as the bride chases him. Another man, an older youth called "Rapayet", dances with her -- she can't cow him and he announces that he will make her "his woman." This sets up a fundamental conflict in the tribe between Rapayet who aspires to leadership and the ostensible heir to power, the ineffectual Leonidas.
Rapayet has to acquire a prohibitively expensive dowry to marry Zaida. (The dowry seems to have been designed to deter him from the match.) Rapayet, who is not to be deterred, goes into the mountains with his best buddy Moises, an Aljuna (someone not in the tribe), a half-black hoodlum with ties to the drug trade. Moises, who is a shady guy, has a Landrover and he is smuggling contraband coffee. Rapayet buys up Moises' coffee and the two of them negotiate with Anibal, an Uncle who lives in a Western-style house in the hills. Anibal is a dope farmer. Trading the coffee for marijuana, Rapayet sells the weed to American Peace Corps volunteers, seen sybaritically frolicking half-nude on a beach. He raises enough money for the dowry, paid in goats and cows, and is allowed to marry Zaida. A series of evil omens presage trouble: there's a huge green locust that appears creeping through the desert gravel and sand and a longlegged crane of some kind (we see only its insect-like and unearthly feet as it stalks through the sleeping quarters.). Rapayet and Moises eliminate some middle-men and begin trading with Americans who transport the weed on small airplanes. There's s double-cross and Moises, who is a hotheaded thug, shoots a couple of Americans. They dig huge holes and bury the dead men in their planes. A third plane is allowed to depart to send warning that the Columbian Waayu mobsters are not to be trifled-with. The Americans, apparently with Moises' connivance, retaliate by killing some Waayu. As we have expected for a good fifteen minutes, Rapayet must take revenge on the man who was his best friend. Rapayet goes to Moises' village where the Narcos are partying -- Moises' gang of crooks all speak Spanish and not Waayu. Rapayet finds Moises having sex and guns him down
The movie is divided into cantos and the saga is represented as being sung by a lone Waayu shepherd tending his herd of goats in the barren desert badlands. Each canto represents a shift in time. In the next canto, Rapayet lives with Zaida, his son, and his daughter, Indira in a Hollywood-style modernist house incongruously set in the middle of the empty desert. The old women are having nightmares that prophecy doom. Rapayet and most of the desert tribe go to a "second wake" at his uncle Anibal's place in the hills. The "second wake" is a ritual in which the casket of a dead leader is opened and the bones, ragged with strips of rotting flesh, are lovingly washed anointed with liquor spat out by one of the old women with magical powers, the, disarticulated skeleton, then,, bundled in white linen to be buried again. This custom isn't viewed as morbid by the tribe and, in fact, is an occasion for a lavish party at Anibal's place, a nice hacienda now equipped with a swimming pool. (This lengthy and ornate scene is the equivalent of the wedding in The Godfather which, in turn, derives from a similar scene in Visconti's The Leopard) The old women are conducting some sort of puberty ritual with regard to Anibal's nubile daughter. The men all get drunk and there's a horse-race that Leonidas, who can't do anything right, loses to Rapayet's son. Leonidas who is now a teenager offers to marry Anibal's daughter but he is rejected. In a rage, Leonidas humiliates one of Anibal's bodyguards by paying the man to publicly eat dog shit. (He funds the exhibition with a big bundle of cash he was going to use for his dowry payment.) This leads to a big quarrel that the elderly women are unable to mediate. Leonidas gets drunk again and returns to Anibal's hacienda where he rapes the man's daughter (and, possibly, kills her). Anibal sends his men out to ambush a group of Waayu drug mules and slaughters them. Anibal's dope fields have been burned and he has lost many of his men. A "speaker" or mediator is sent with a talking stick to try to buy-off the feud but Anibal, who is a furious rage, shoots the man violating the rules of the tribe. (On Rapayet's side, there are simiilar breaches of ritual protocol -- Rapayet and his henchmen are storing weapons in caskets in their graveyard supposed to be full of corpses awaiting their "second wake." Anibal sells the last of his marijuana in Medillin and uses the money to recruit some mercenaries. They attack Rapayet's lavish modernist home and blow it up with grenade-launchers. Apparently, Zaida and Rapayet's son are killed. Anibal all alone now, and leading a burro, representing the last of his wealth, comes to Rapayet's ruined compound and kills Rapayet. Indira, Rapayet's daughter, wanders off herding a couple of goats -- the nomadic tribe has returned to poverty and shepherd's work after their decade-long and disastrous foray into drug-dealing. The shepherd singing the last canto says that he made the song because he had met a young woman herding a few goats in the desert and observed that no one had taught her the shepherd's trade -- she didn't seem to know what she was doing. (He is referring to Indira.)
Birds of Passage runs 125 minutes but because of the abundance of action packed into the picture, seems to be a longer film. My summary is probably inexact and inaccurate. Parts of the movie are hard to follow and it's difficult to determine who, if anyone, has any agency in the plot. Rapayet seems rather passive and is acted upon as opposed to acting. The old women, rival grandmothers, apparently are controlling the action, although, obviously, things spiral into chaos. Notwithstanding the rather Shakespearian level of violence, the killings mostly take place off-screen and are depicted only by their outcomes. The movie doesn't dwell on violence but shows it in a matter-of-fact way. The Waayu are fiercely proud and have never been subdued by outsiders. But they are prone to internecine blood feuds. Rapayet is named after a forebear who was the sole survivor of a feud. In the end of the movie, the film's Homer, the shepherd seen in profile against a setting sun, sings mournfully that their gods no longer speak to the Waayu through dreams as was once the case. It's not outsiders (the despised aljunos) that destroy the Waayu but their own rivalries and inter-clan feuding -- all driven to a fever-pitch by the easy money involved in the drug trade. The picture is elegantly made and extremely interesting. The subject matter is exotic to the point that I wasn't able to identify with the characters, but I am able to see that the picture is epic in scope and recommend it. But it's hard to follow: at one point, one of the formidable grandmothers goes to Anibal's compound to retrieve a corpse wrapped with a white sheet -- this is clearly a key scene, but I didn't whose body was in the tightly wrapped bundle. (I think this confusion was intended, but I'm not sure why -- from reading plot summary, I now know the wrapped corpse was that of Rapayet's son.) I wasn't able to reliably distinguish between the grandmothers in their colorful batik gowns and this may have led to my confusion as to this scene. Although there's a lot of exuberant gangster movie stuff in the movie, the things that will stick with you, I think, are the opening scenes involving the dance imitating birds and, then, the "second wake" at Anibal's hacienda -- although the tropes of a gangster film are obviously employed in the picture (particularly in the assassination of Moises' episode), the movie suggests something strange and incommunicable on the basis of its ethnographic detail. This picture is far better than Cirro Guerra''s 2015 Embrace of the Serpent, a highly acclaimed movie but one that I thought was overwrought and simplistic. Guerra was hired by Amazon to produce a mini-series with an all-star cast called Cortes about the fall of the Aztec empire. Covid intervened and the film was never made. Guerra's Tv series Green Frontier (2017) was beautifully shot but impenetrable to me -- it was another movie about indigenous people living, this time, in the Columbian jungle. Guerra doesn't seem to have made a film since 2019 when he released Waiting for the Barbarians, a movie with a distinguished cast that was poorly received.